Laos Backpacking
Laos has something of a cult status among travellers. It has a unique appeal, with interesting cultures, fantastic scenery and the most laid-back, friendly people you could ever wish to meet. Whilst it is developing quite rapidly, it still retains a very traditional, unspoilt charm. Laos is one of the world’s last remaining Communist countries. Tourism was not permitted until 1988, but the country has now opened up and travelling around is surprisingly easy.
Many travellers will enter Laos overland, usually via bus. It borders with Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia, China and Vietnam. Border details change regularly, so do check for the latest updates, before setting off. Visas for visits of up to 30 days are issued at border points; for longer stays a visa needs to be arranged in advance. However, do again check the latest information before departure.
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Getting around Laos is getting easier, with more private bus services being added to enhance the public bus service. There are also many river taxis along the Mekong River.
The Lao currency is the Kip; however Thai Bahts and US dollars are also accepted everywhere. Laos is one of the cheapest places in Asia and you can easily get by on less than 10 US dollars a day.
The best time to visit Laos is the dry season between November and March. The wet season, particularly between July and October, can make road travel very heavy going.
Laos will appeal to travellers seeking out nature, adventure or both. Rafting, kayaking, rock-climbing and mountain biking are all popular activities but the real draw card is trekking, which usually combines the breathtaking scenery with a traditional village homestay. |
The capital of Laos, Vientiane, feels more like a big village than a crowded Asian city. Nestled on the fertile banks of the Mekong River, the crumbling French architecture reflects the country’s colonial history. There is plenty to see and do here and the French-inspired cuisine is some of Asia’s finest.
Perhaps the biggest single attraction of Laos is Luang Prabang, an ancient royal city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the country’s cultural and religious centre and home to 32 incredible temple complexes. Of these, Wat Xieng Thong is one of the most impressive; a colourful mix of stained glass and gold.
In the north east of the country is Xiang Khouang, home to the fascinating Plain of Jars, where hundreds of giant stone jars are dotted around the landscape. If legend is to be believed, these jars are over 2000 years old and were used to ferment rice wine, in readiness for celebrating a victorious battle. If you’re feeling weary after a day of sightseeing, public bathing is permitted at two hot springs in the province: Bo Noi and Bo Yai.
A long time backpacker favourite is Vang Vieng. A myriad of limestone caves and cliffs and its location on the Nam Song river make it a popular spot for activities such as rock climbing and kayaking. Its popularity has led to a number of guest houses opening, many with loud TV bars somewhat spoiling the idyll, but it’s a great place to hang out for a few days, nonetheless.
Laos appears to be steadily gaining tourists’ interests, especially for second- or third-time travelers to South-East Asia. The land is filled with temples and undisturbed forests with beautiful trails and waterfalls.
Quick Facts
- Capital city: Vientiane (on the banks of the Mekong river).
- Borders: Vietnam (east), Cambodia (south), Thailand (west), Burma (north) and China (north).
- Time Zone: UTC+7
- Population: approx 6.5 million
- Languages: Lao (official), French, English, and various ethnic languages.
- Religions: Buddhism (60%), Animist and Other (40%, including 1.5% Christianity).
- Currency: Kip, though US currency is mostly accepted (US$1 = 9600 Kip).
History
Laos was initially a Khmer vassal state in the 14 th Century. There were some takeovers and disputes between Siamese (19 th Century), French (early 20 th Century) and Japanese (World War II), with further struggles between Communist and North Vietnam-allied Pathet Lao and the French-leaning monarchy. The US had dropped 1.9 million metric tons of bombs onto Laos during the Vietnam War (1964-1973), and by the fall of Saigon in 1975, the Communist Pathet Lao came into power, overtaking the six-century old monarchy. By 1997 Laos had been admitted into ASEAN, and foreign investment laws were loosened. In 1998 the government established efforts to encourage tourism into the country by declaring it ‘Visit Laos Year.’
Hot Spots
Pha That Luang – Vientiane
Pha That Luang is the country’s most important national religious symbol. The three-layered gilded stupa hosts a relic of the Buddha, a breastbone. The annual Ban That Luang festival occurs in November, beginning on the night of the full moon.
French Influence – Vientiane
A local twist on Paris' Arc de Triomphe, the Patuxai (or Monument Anousavari), is a monument built in memory of those killed in the war prior to Communist takeover.
Luang Prabang
Once the capital of Laos until the 16 th Century, Luang Prabang is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage City. Visit the Royal Palace Museum (Haw Kham), the former royal palace constructed in the early 20 th Century, with a mixture of Lao and French influences. The oldest monastery in Luang Prabang is the Golden City Monastery (Wat Xieng Thong). This temple was built by King Sai Sethathirat in 1560 and had been patronised by the Lao Monarchy until 1975. The Buddhist Caves (Pak Ou Caves) a little further north from town, are also famous for the mixture of natural scenery and religious iconography.
Waterfalls
Kuang Si, about 30 km south of Laung Prabang is a multi-tiered waterfall with unique limestone formations.
Taat Sae, also south of Laung Prabang (slightly closer to the city), is very crowded on weekends, and has many pools of water and shorter drops compared to Kuang Si.
Shopping
100% handmade Laos silk scarves and other silk products should start at around US $5. The Morning Market (Talat Sao) in Vientiane is a popular market for many stalls selling silk and other textiles.
Food & Drink
The staple food of Laos is sticky rice (khao niaow), usually eaten by hand. The national dish is a salad of minced meat mixed with herbs and spices called laap or larb. Much of Lao cuisine is similar to the food found in the north-eastern regions of Thailand. French and Vietnamese influences are also present in Lao cuisine.
The national beer is called Beer Lao, and rice whiskey is called ‘lao-lao’.
Coffee (kaafeh) is from the Bolaven Plateau in the south, and not adulterated with ground tamarind seed. Kaafeh Lao comes with sugar and condensed milk. Kaafeh nom is the normal westerners’ version of white coffee, and kaafeh dam is black coffee.
Transport
Ferries
Various options available between ‘slow’ and ‘speed’ boats. Some providers only operate during the wet season (April to October).
Buses (VIP/mini)
Buses in Laos comes in forms of ‘VIP’ or ‘mini-bus’. The VIP bus is more like an old bus of Western standards, and provides more leg room than the mini-bus.
Cars
Available for hire, with the option of a driver at around US $95 per day. The cars are new and quite reliable.
Jumbo
Motorised three-wheeler, similar to ‘tuk-tuks’ of Thailand. Should not cost more than US $1 for journeys less than 5 kms.